Why do I need to sealcoat my parking lot?

This is a question that we get asked a lot.  To really understand what sealcoating does for your parking lot, you must first understand how asphalt is made.  I could get all technical with this, but I'm sure everyone would stop reading, so simply but it's small aggregate mixed with oil.  This oil is the glue that holds all the rocks together.  As asphalt ages that oil begins to dry out and as it does the asphalt  begins to crumble.  By applying a sealcoat we are able to prolong the life of the asphalt by adding that oil back in.  It is applied on to the surface and then, like a dry sponge, it is absorbed back into the asphalt.

In most cases, the solution to the problem of surface raveling is to sealcoat the pavement, especially if it is under 5 years old and is structurally sound (no visible alligatoring or block cracking). The economic benefits of sealcoating are difficult to determine because there are many variables that contribute to asphalt failure. Generally speaking, the greatest returns in extended life of a pavement can be made from a sealcoat expense when the pavement is 1-2 years old.

The sealcoat material should have at least 3 pounds of sand added per undiluted gallon of sealer to provide adequate skid resistance. Sand is cheap, but it is very difficult to pump without the right equipment.

Procedure:

1. Notify tenants! A sealcoating project must be properly planned since it involves taking large sections of a parking lot at a time (usually 5,000 square yards per section) and each section takes 2 days to seal and stripe. If possible, post a map with each section highlighted in a public place and send out individual notices. Make sure to explain your policy on moving cars (i.e.: who will pay for a tow truck).
2. Weather delays: Since a sealcoating emulsion is water-based, it must dry completely before it sets. The advent of web site weather maps has improved the process, but if rain is imminent, the sealcoat job will be delayed and tenants need to be clear about how each delay affects the scheduling of each section. The better the communication, the less chance there will be of upset tenants!
3. Barricade each section: The type of barricade devices is dependent on site constraints but the more obvious the better. If the barricade is easily moved or if there is a gap to fit a car through, tenants will drive through the wet material and create a mess.
4. Surface preparation: All dirt, vegetation and silt must be removed from the surface with blowers, scrapers or broom tractors. A sealcoat will not stick to dirt!
5. Tape off the entrance to get a better edge.
6. Primer coat (optional): If a surface is heavily oxidized, priming is recommended to maximize adhesion of the sealcoat material.
7. Oil spot primer: The oil spots must be scraped and primed with a special oil spot primer. A sealcoat will not adhere to untreated oil spots.
8. Sealcoat application: A minimum of 2 coats should be applied to the surface. Each coat should be cured before the next coat is applied. The sealcoat can be sprayed or hand-applied to the surface of the asphalt at a rate of .1 gallon of undiluted material per square yard per application. Each sealcoat manufacturer has different requirements for the amount of water added to provide proper viscosity but the important measure is the amount of undiluted material applied to the pavement. It is imperative that all cars are removed from each section prior to applying material.
9. Third coat in drive lanes (optional): A sealcoat is primarily worn off the surface by the sheer force of tires on the pavement. The sealcoat will wear fastest in the drive lanes of a parking lot, especially in the entranceways. A third coat can be applied in these heavy wear areas to maximize the service life of the sealcoat

Hope this information Helps!!